October 9
Today we leave Prague. This has been a wonderful stay. Just after we got up we went to the overlook below the Monastery to see the skyline at sunrise and for one last time. We had one last great breakfast at the Savoy and finished packing.
The hotel arranged our ride to the airport. Although we missed all heavy traffic, it took over 30 minutes to get to the airport. It is a very nice airport. Our flight on Czech Air was very nice, the plane was clean and comfortable – there was more leg room than usual and we even got a snack on a less than two hour flight!
The only snag was that the Nor realized as we got on the plane that he had left his wallet in the safe in the room at the Savoy. We got our luggage and were on the way to the hotel within 30 minutes.
Our hotel is the Hotel Richmond Opera, it is very close to the Opera Garnier on a quiet side street. It is small and the staff at the front desk is quite nice, the room is larger than I expected That does not mean it is big but I was sort of expecting to have to step across the bed to get to the bathroom. The furniture is probably older and it is definitely the least nice hotel we have stayed in,, It is not a bad place and for Paris is a really good price. It is clean and quiet and perfectly located. We are happy.
We walled over to the Opera and then down to the Louvre and the Gardens The pyramid in front of the palace is amazing. We walked back toward the hotel and stopped to have dinner at a place called In Sherwood that we learned is a well known jazz club in Paris.
October 10
Our room at the Hotel Richmond Opera is the least of our rooms this trip but then all our rooms have been so nice it is not that bad to be the least. It is at the back of the hotel and because of the way it is set we have a long passage into our room, and a window in both the bathroom and the sleeping room. The room is a nice size but could use a bit of updating. The important thing, it is clean and the beds are comfortable. The bathroom is very nice but the hair dryer is the most anemic drier I have ever used.
Up and out early today. We don't have breakfast with our room and based on what I saw as we walked out, we aren't missing anything. We strolled on the quiet streets to the Opera and had breakfast of coffee and croissants at a cafe facing the Opera—damn we are so French!
We walked back to the Louvre and to the Seine. We walked along the water to get to the Ile de la Cite and Notre Dame,. We had Rick Steve's historic Paris walk on the i-phone and listened to it as we approached the church. We walked in and discovered that there was an ordination going on. We stood and watched the ceremony. It was so moving, even for a non-Catholic. The Arch-bishop at least eight bishops, a bunch of priests and around 60 deacons along with a huge choir and the amazing organ participated in this ceremony. It was so odd to stand there on the side of the silk cord separating the congregation from the tourists. We saw some of the ceremony on the closed circuit TV. Here were all these tourists leaning over to take pictures of the rose window as one of the most impressive and important rites of the church were going on. At the end of the ceremony the main doors of the church were opened and all of the clergy processed outside and then came back around to the side of the church.
After the ceremony ended we walked around the church and continued to be in awe that we were actually there.
We continued our Rick Steve's walk to the Latin Quarter where we had lunch at a cafe and then over to St. Chapelle. The stained glass is stunning. And while crowded it was nothing like Notre Dame.
As we finished at Pont Neuf we decided that we needed to see the Eiffel Tower. The afternoon was gorgeous and there were thousands of Parisians mixing with all the tourists enjoying the site and the sun.
We took the Metro back to the Opera and got our grazing material at the Mono Prix.
Tomorrow Sacre Couer
Oh—forgot to mention, Nor called the hotel Savoy and they are sending him his wallet, now if his i phone would just miraculously start working Nor's trip would be perfect
October 11
This morning we decided to walk to Sacre Couer. We walked through the charming narrow streets that led up to the top of the hill upon which Sacre Couer is set.
Today there was a festival going on around the area. Montmartre actually grows grapes and they were having their fall festival. They invited vintners from all around France and Quebec, Canada. There were tents all over offering wine for 3 or 4 euros a glass.
We went in the church and the mass had just started, we stayed for little while enjoying the lovely voices of the 10 nun choir and the beauty of the church itself. The Central Dome soars over the congregation and gives a real sense of light, much more like the Danish churches than the other French and German churches we have visited. The altar is exquisite but like all the catholic churches there is now a much smaller simpler altar in front of the the ornate original altar from which the mass is actually said. The priest now faces the congregation and of course in the past he faced away from the congregation and toward the altar and cross.
Again, the tourists were walking around the outer edges of the church as the service went on. Although, all the signs entering the church announced that photos were okay but no flash, the rule was not well enforced and there were flashes going off all around the church. Beside, the fact that we had been asked not to take flash photos, the rudeness of using a flash during a religious service was just beyond me.
We walked down the steps, ducking the artists, scammers and hawkers along the way.The famous steps were beginning to fill with people but it was still a bit early for Parisians. At the base of the steps is a small carousel. We saw a carousel at the Tuileries I recall being told that every town in France has its carousel
Next we walked on to the Halles and visited St. Eustache church. It was another soaring gothic church but without the crowds. We moved on the the Marais and all the activity that looks and feels like Greenwich or Soho in New York.
To end our Sunday in Paris Nor and I walked to the left bank and danced on the banks of the Seine. We were hoping to join the throngs who dance there but apparently it is over for the season. So Nor and I had our own dance session. We picked a spot on a small knoll and danced. Just the two of us on the banks of the Seine at sunset. And without music we were right in time!
October 12
Today was the Louvre and a walk along the Champs Eleyesse.
As we walked to the museum, we stopped and got two croissants –we are getting so spoiled by the bread and pastries! Then we stopped for coffee—yes it was a Starbucks but it was there and the coffee was hot. I wonder if Ricky would like a starbucks cup that says starbucks Paris on it.
Because of our Museum Pass we were able to enter at the Richelieu Passage and avoid the long lines at the metal detectors. We read one book that said Mondays were really busy and another that recommended that you go on Monday to avoid the crowds. My recommendation—it is probably worst on weekends and free days otherwise, there are lots of artlovers in Paris so it will always have lots of people. Get the museum pass enter away from the crowds and just fit your schedule and if you have to go on a weekend, well, there is really enough space and art for everyone.
The reception center under the pyramid is something! The pyramid is just the tip of it. (Pun intended) There are escelators and spirling stairs and an open elevator in the center of the spiral to get down to the reception floor. You drop off your coat—they do not accept tips. Pick up your guide to the museum, which is tough to follow but the place is so big it is understandable. Then up to one of three wings, Denon, Sully or Richilieu.
Up we went—photos permitted but no flash, (which does not seem to be very well enforced). The palace itself is a sight! While there are some areas that are clearly new. In the original palace portions and the portions built before the 20th century for the museum, the columns and ceilings are works of art in their own right. The ceilings have statues of angels or kings or artists and central paintings that rival those we have seen on the walls.
We saw the Venus de Milo, and the Winged Victory. Venus is so peaceful, despite all the crowds and cameras. She just stands there eyes lowered left knee bent. Winged Victory though is truly ready to move, she is leaning forward wings spread to catch the wind, her gowns pushed back against her body by the wind. She looks like she is trying to push through her glut of admirers.
Mona Lisa too was surrounded by admirers, a small painting hung alone on a huge wall. She does seem to look at you and I was sure that she and I were sharing a secret laugh at all this to do. I remember my mom talking about seeing the Mona Lisa when they visited Paris right after World War II she said that the portriat was hung on the wall along with lots of others, not at all set out from the rest of the paintings. The display has certainly changed. On a wall alone behind glass with a wooded and a silk barrier between her and the crowds.
Fra Angelica, Titin, Michaelangelo, Raphael, Vermeer so many paintings and statues that I have seen in books and studied to see in real life it is overwhelming.
We took a short break for a sandwich and water in the Lovre before walking through the gardens to the Place de Concorde and the Obelisk of Luxor and on the the Champs Eleyesse and the Arc de Trimophe We had another small snack at the George V cafe. Nor had beer and I had a grand marnier crepe--
oo la la!
We took some time to look down the eleven roads that start or end (depending on your direction) at the Arc de Trimophe. The tomb of the unknowns is at the Arc with the eternal flame and bouquets of flowers surrounding it. Amongst the roses and carnations and lilies was a bouquet of red poppies.
We took the train back to our rooms. On the way we stopped at Paul and got two fabulous individual quiches and a torte for dinner.
After we rested our feet a bit we went back to the Arc de Trimophe to see Paris at night. We could see the lighted Eiffel Tower as wells as all the way down the Champs Eleyesse to the Louvre. No dancing tonight but we did sit and people watch—a must do.
October 13.
Happy Birthday Karl.
We began the day with our soon to be habitual croissants and coffee and then walked on to the D'Orsay so see the impressionists.
This museum used to be the train station and what a station it must have been the high arched ceiling the glass and the clocks. It has been turned into a wonderful museum space and again the space is as worth the trip as the art (well almost).
When you enter you are looking across the length of the museum at all of the statues. After a wander amongst them we started looking at the paintings. It begins with the realists and moves quickly and magnificently to the impressionists. Among the many were Renoir's afternoon at the park, Some of Monet's Rouen cathedral studies, Degas dance lesson and young dancer statue. Van Gogh's self portrait, he even caught that haunted look in his eyes. We say Gauguin's and Corot's and Siseley's and so many more We finished with Rodin's sculptures including his sculpture of Balzac.
I changed out of my clunky walking shoes and into my good shoes and we walked a few blocks to our lunch at L'Atlier de Joel Roubichan. This is a big deal for us. JR has been named the chef of the century—by whom I don't know but everyone one Top Chef was kissing his feet. Anyway, this was his first restaurant. It is identified as a part of the Hotel Palais Royal but I don't think you get your breakfast at this restaurant included with your room
Our reservation was at two and we were seated at exactly that. I had a glass of champagne to start and Nor had a red wine,.We looked over the menu which looked amazing and both settled on the Decouvret (Discovery) menu. That took us from amuse bouche to dessert in about 15 small dishes. We began with a small cup of a potato soup (demitasse size) the had smoked eel and caviar on a soft cracker on a mild horseradish sauce, next, it was a soft shell crab deep fried on an avocado sauce.Then we were served what they called an egg, the white was whipped, and in the whip were some small mushrooms, the pan seared duck on white beans in chicken broth was the next course, then the fish course which was a sole with an oyster on top, then it was beef bourgenoine—one more course to die for. Finally, lemon sorbet on top of frozen strawberry sorbet and then ultimately vanilla ice cream in a chocolate helmet with chocolate poured over it. Well okay it wasn't 15 courses but it was a lot of courses and each one was incredible
The restaurant itself is most unusual it is very small, only 35 seats, and these are all around a bar, sort of like the old lunch counter, gone upscale, everything is black and red and as you sit there you can watch the chef's working on the various dishes. We even got to watch them clean up which in itself was a symphony in movement. I liked the concept for lunch but I think if I were to have dinner at a JR restaurant I would go to one with tables.
I think this meal undid any good we have done in walking seven hours a day and grazing lightly.
Worth every calorie, carb and euro!
I forgot to mention that Nor's wallet arrived Monday. But not without some more excitement.
He went down to the desk after we got back in the afternoon and the desk clerk told him it was delivered to the room. He came back up and we did a thorough search to make sure that we had not covered it up with a jacket or something. It was not here, so Nor went back down and confirmed that they knew the name to which it was to have been delivered and they assured him they knew who he was. So they started a search and about 15 minutes later a very upset maid delivered the package, explaining that it was all her fault and she had taken it to the wrong room. So the saga of the wallet ends on a happy note. But this wallet is now one of Nor's most valuable possessions and he will have to take great care of it in the future.
October 14
Today we took the train to Versailles. Except for seeming to always take at least one wrong turn once we get underground, we are getting quite good at navigating the Metro and the trains—I know someone will say that they are really easy and well marked—but please don't steal our small bit of travel pride. We were able to use our Eurorail pass for the train, we did have to go in a different gate and show the pass but since we are going to leave France with two unused days it was worth the 12 euro savings!
The walk from the train to the Palace of Versailles is quite short and lovely, down a tree lined boulevard that I am sure was once part of the royal approach to the palace.
We are also getting good at using the Museum Pass, you don't have to stop in any ticket line to use the pass, yes again I am sure that someone knows that but we had to learn it and we did.
We began the tour with the chapel which as lovely and ornate as it was turned out to be the most modest room we saw all day. Each room we walked through was more stunning than the next, with painted and plastered ceilings of marble columned and flocked walls, also covered with paintings. Then we came to the hall of mirrors. Even with the crowds of tourists the room wasn't full. Annoying because it seemed that everyone wanted a picture of their travel partner in front of something. There was one woman whose husband and to stop about every five feet for her to take another image of him – I would hate to have to see their vacation pictures, and here is Jon in front the the first window in the Hall of Mirrors and here he is in front of the first mirror and the first statue and the second window and the second mirror—for 70 meters! And then of course there were the two room at either end the peace room and the war room. The ceiling painted here tells the story of the Dutch war in the 1600's.
Mirrors were incredibly rare and expensive when this room was created and so the use of these mirrors was a statement of wealth.
We walked out to the gardens this not being the first Sunday of the month the fountains were not going but talk about gilding the lily! The gardens stretch for nearly two miles with a huge pond running the center called the Grand Canal. The Canal is outlined by paths and trees and interrupted by occasional fountains that even without water spouting out are worth the view. We walked on to the Grand Trianon, while the scale is much more manageable it is still opulent beyond anything we have seen.
The crowds too were more manageable, we actually rooms to ourselves, except one room where the docent was sure we were going to touch everything and so stayed right at Nor's shoulder. We escaped without setting off an alarm and wandered the gardens here for awhile.
We took the tram back to the palace and headed back to the train.
Oh I forgo to mention we did have lunch in a little tea room at the palace. The waiter was practicing very hard to be one of the famously rude French waiters, but given that he was basically serving mass produced meals, it wasn't really working for him. Just ahead of us a group of nine American teenages were seated, we were fortunate enough to get to sit at the next table over. Nor concluded that they were the French Club on a field trip. We also decided that sometimes it would be nice not to speak english, like when a group of teens are talking
Our train let us off at Les Invalid es so we walked over to see Napoleon's tomb. The boulevard leading up to Les Invalides is broad and ends at the Grand Palais. Napoleon's certainly knew how to get crowned and how to get buried. Under a huge dome Napoleon's crypt is one floor down so one has to look down. I read that he wanted to make sure that everyone had to bow their heads when they came.
Back to the hotel for the evening.
October 15
Our last day in Paris and except for a very long flight the last day of our vacation.
We took the metro to Pere LaChaise Cemetery. There was something going on as we went into the Metro because the police were there searching any large bags and the sniff dogs were there as well. Luckily we had decided not to take my big camera today so were of no interest to the gendarmes, to the extent two over 60s would have interested them anyway.
So many people known and unknown buried in Pere LaChaise Cemetery. We found Gertrude Stein, Rossini, Isadore Duncan, Oscar Wilde, and Ableard and Heloise. We tried to find Jim Morrison but he eluded us. Unlike most of Paris, this cemetery is hilly and there are stairs and steep paths up and around. There are simple headstones mixed in with fabulous crypts and small chapels. Most of the cemetery is shaded by large maple and plain trees. We wandered around for a couple of hours and then headed for Ile St. Louis.
On the island we had lunch at a cafe facing Notre Dame. It is known for its sorbet and even though this was the coldest day we have had yet, two groups of school children with their teachers stopped to buy a cone. The students were all English speakers and their teachers though clearly French speakers were fluent in English. As one group started to order the the teacher said, ' lets try to order in French' please.' We guessed the International school on a field trip. Imagine walking from your school across the bridge from Ile de la City to Ile St Louis to buy ice cream! A mother, grandmother and two children sat down next to us to have a hot chocolate and the kids to have a cone. Nor was all grins as the little boy worked to make his cone last as long as he could. His bites got smaller and smaller as he closer to the end of the cone. Sadly, he finally had to finish but not before entertaining himself and Nor for nearly fifteen minutes.
We walked across the Ile and found gifts for Meghan and Raquel. Sure hope they like them.
As we walked we saw another pug, I think that makes five all told. Most of them were quite small compared to ours, but the pug today was a real Digby sized fella.
We walked back up to the Opera, strolling along the Seine until we reached the Louvre. We thought we would check out the Carousel de la Louvre. It was filled with international shops like Espirit,and Virgin Records, needless to say we didn't spend much time there.
We window licked our way to the Opera and then toured the Opera building as our last 'sight' see
The seats in the auditorium are all red velvet and the boxes all around are individual red velvet seats separated by half walls of flocked fabric. The ceiling is a stunnning Matisse. We walked out on to the balcony from the long grand chamber. Then to round out the trip we walked down the grand staircase. You could feel the beautiful people in their evening best walking up and down the stairs being seen and seeing.
Nor went back to the room and I went on to get a few last gifts. After I got back we walked again on rue de la Opera and Nor bought me a pair of beautiful ballet slipper shoes. We have seen so many women wearing them as we have walked around the city I decided I really NEEDED a pair! They are a wonderful gift and a wonderful memory of this vacation.
Speaking of shoes the footwear is stunning here. I felt really clunky in my keens but unless Keen comes out with stylish leather I doubt I could walk very far in the lovely heels I saw pass me by.
When we were in Galleries Lafayette I wandered around the full floor of shoes on sale. I think every shoe manufacturer was represented and it would have been hard to choose a pair. Not only was the choice incredible, in order to buy you had to go from one 'shop' to the next and in each shop the shop person only worked on one brand so if it didn't fit you had to move on to the next 'shop' and sales person. While I love the idea of small shops, this is one place where I do prefer Nordstrom's one stop shop for shoes.
And when it comes to shoes some are really impractical, like the young woman in Prague walking along St. Wenscelas Square in her high spiked heels, she was striding along until her heel got caught in the cobble and she walked right out of it. It took a bit of doing to get the shoe free, but she did and strode on down the road. Lucky for her she wasn't wearing boots or shoes with straps or she would have surely broken something.
I didn't see quite as many spikes in Paris as I did in Prague, here the ladies were wearing boots and heels with a bit squarer heel or my lovely ballet slipper type shoe.
Our last meal was an homage to our trip to Spain with a Kebap sandwich—Spain wins but France is a close second.
So our trip is ending. Each day created a different memory. We have seen so much and learned even more. I don't think we did much damage to US European relations and I know that we come home with a greater appreciation of the history that makes each of these four cities and countries unique. And to the extent that we come from each a greater understanding of who we are.
We are both sorry to leave but we are so eager to see our family. Another wonderful part of trips is going home to the ones you love.
