We rose to our alarm--wait this is vacation! Did I mention that daylight savings time has started? Boy--first you have jetlag to contend with and then daylight savings! Not fair! Oh well we are on to Porto today!
Jose' met us at 9:00 and we did our sardine trick with luggage in his trunk--we could be in trouble later this month when we try to get into our rental car! Nor, Lynn and I played kneesy in the back seat but were really pretty comfortable.
First stop Fatima! Such an interesting place. I have never been to a site of a miracle before. It was really very moving, even for an old sinner like me. Here, three children were visited by the Virgin in 1916. The story can be found on the internet and I think is better told on those sites than here. There is a chapel at the place where the children saw their visions, it is open to the plaza which likely rivals St. Peter's in size. At both ends of the plaza are churches, one where there were outdoor altars erected, likely for Easter, is very traditional, at the other end is a very modern church, the main church is very simple and looks like to seats at least 2000. Below ground level there are six smaller chapels and an exhibition area.
There is an area to buy candles and then a forno--oven where you light your candles, there is fire below the candles which quickly melts the candles and I suspect sends the wax to be recycled for later use.
Although there were many people, it wasn't crowded on this Monday of holy week, and although many were taking photos there was an attitude of respect by all and certainly deeply felt emotions by some.
Next stop Porto, Lynn and Ron are in a very elegant Intercontinental hotel tonight and we are in a much more boutique style hotel close to the river. After we said good bye to Jose' we checked in to our hotel. Nor and I then went for a walk in the neighborhood. It is very old, older than Lisbon Jose' told us. This is the birthplace of Henry the Navigator and we walked by his home. As we walked along the river we saw our ship the Amavida pull into dock. We were quite excited as I got to thinking that was pretty silly since we are going to live on it for the next seven days.
We ran into Lynn and Ron as we were walking up to the cathedral. They have dinner at their hotel included so we will be dining separately. The cathedral is on a high hill and we arrived after walking up some very narrow and steep streets. The plaza gave great views of the city and the river. The cathedral itself is quite narrow inside but very lovely.
Back down the hill and into a tapas restaurant for dinner. We had one dish called Sausage of hell, it was served on a pottery dish that raised it from the bottom and in the bottom was a liquid accelerant that the waiter lit so we could cook the sausage. It was excellent as was the rest of the meal and the wine.
Back to the room and tomorrow we board!
Tuesday, March 31, 2015
Monday, March 30, 2015
Sunday in Lisbon
Palm Sunday in Lisbon! The day began slowly, daylight savings began last night, so when we awoke at our normal time it was already 7:30. (we will have to set an alarm tomorrow or we may miss our ride to Porto) Lynn and Ron went in search of a Sunday service while Nor and I prayed to the coffee pot and internet. Hopefully they were able to say a little prayer for our souls.
After failing to find a chuch that would let them in, Lynn and Ron returned and we all headed to the Mercado that was recommended by our dinner partners from the night before! The mercado do Riberia (I am quessing market at the river) was just down the hill -- our faithful guide (OFG) Nor, led us right to the door and oh I am glad he did. In the old warehouse are something like 30 restaurant stalls, and there are no mall stalls these were fine dining at a great price, Asian, steak, fish, pizza, Portuguese, chef's tasting menus, wines, gelato and much more. There are tables down the center where you bring your food. There were families and couples and a few tourists enjoying the food and the day. We each got the foods we wanted and then shared tastes. We may return to this location when we are nearing the end of our adventures. What fun!
We walked on to the cathedral. (Thanks again OFG)Again a busy plaza in front of the church. We all agreed that we disagree with Rick Steves-it was lovely inside. much simpler than some of the other churches we have visited but still wonderful soaring ceilings and beautiful Rose windows.
Now we were in stroll mode, we strolled back to the Sta Domingo had a small Gingha -- a local cherry/ginger liqueur drink). Then we strolled back to the apartment to drop of cameras and then to the store to buy some tiles to take home. Finally we strolled to a cafe and one final time to Trinidade for beer and seafood.
Our stay in Lisbon has been wonderful. The city is comfortable with easy walking even on the hills, the people are charming and most speak English, at least enough to get by with tourists. As Nor pointed out the buildings seem not to be over seven stories which gives the streets a much more open feel. The tiles on the sides of the buildings and the multitude of plazas and parks makes this a great place to visit.
So on the Fatima and Porto and beyond!
After failing to find a chuch that would let them in, Lynn and Ron returned and we all headed to the Mercado that was recommended by our dinner partners from the night before! The mercado do Riberia (I am quessing market at the river) was just down the hill -- our faithful guide (OFG) Nor, led us right to the door and oh I am glad he did. In the old warehouse are something like 30 restaurant stalls, and there are no mall stalls these were fine dining at a great price, Asian, steak, fish, pizza, Portuguese, chef's tasting menus, wines, gelato and much more. There are tables down the center where you bring your food. There were families and couples and a few tourists enjoying the food and the day. We each got the foods we wanted and then shared tastes. We may return to this location when we are nearing the end of our adventures. What fun!
We walked on to the cathedral. (Thanks again OFG)Again a busy plaza in front of the church. We all agreed that we disagree with Rick Steves-it was lovely inside. much simpler than some of the other churches we have visited but still wonderful soaring ceilings and beautiful Rose windows.
Now we were in stroll mode, we strolled back to the Sta Domingo had a small Gingha -- a local cherry/ginger liqueur drink). Then we strolled back to the apartment to drop of cameras and then to the store to buy some tiles to take home. Finally we strolled to a cafe and one final time to Trinidade for beer and seafood.
Our stay in Lisbon has been wonderful. The city is comfortable with easy walking even on the hills, the people are charming and most speak English, at least enough to get by with tourists. As Nor pointed out the buildings seem not to be over seven stories which gives the streets a much more open feel. The tiles on the sides of the buildings and the multitude of plazas and parks makes this a great place to visit.
So on the Fatima and Porto and beyond!
Sunday, March 29, 2015
Lisbon and the Belem Area
Back in Lisbon today for more walking and eating! Because we are on our own schedule we got up and moving at our own pace. We left the flat about 9:30 and headed to the tram stop to head to the Belem area of town about 5 kilometers away.
We found the tram stop right away and then remembered that we had to purchase our tickets in advance--Thus began our walks across the Plaza Commercio First one direction to what we thought was a TI--then over to the TI--then across the Square to another TI and finally down into the Metro station to buy the tickets--then back up out of the metro and back across the square to wait for the tram. The ride was an experience--because it was a Saturday and because it was a beautiful day--and because Belem is a tourist desination, we were in the tram like sardines. Nor says that Portugal is famous for its sardines and as Ron pointed out so far these are the only ones we have found.
The tram let us off right in from of the Monastary of Sa. Jeronimos.
The Monastary is a huge building running 300 yards. It was built by King Manuel to celebrate and pray for the explorers. Vasco De Gama who is buried there is said to have prayed for his safe return before leaving on his voyages. The cloisters of the monastary are a large square in the style called Manueline--it is very ornate all for decoration not for structure, there are curliques and other designs in the cut stone as well as gargoyles and family crests. The two stories of the cloisters are beautiful to walk around. The church too is lovely, in this same style. At the altar are the tombs of two kings and two queens all on the back of elephants which replaced lions as symbols of power.
After visiting the monastary we crossed the main roads and went to the statue remembering all the explorers, led by Henry the Navigator. We walked to the Tower of Belem, which is at the mouth of the river to protect Lisbon from invaders. The park was crowded with families, couples and singles enjoying the gorgeous day
Next we walked to the Pastels de Belem shop for a traditional tart like sweet and a coffee (beer for Nor and Ron). Then back on the bus and to the flat. We stopped just long enough to drop off cameras and change shoes, then to Trindad for a beer and appetizers.
Across the street from Trindade we found (thank you Ron) a restaurant called Faz Gostos-- WOW!
Another amazing meal of seafoods. and two incredible desserts Lynn and I are going back there for desserts while the guys go across the street to Trinidade for beers--hey calories are calories!!!
While dining a charming french couple sat down and as they prepared to order they asked Ron what he was having and that started a nice conversation. We learned that their son is in univeristy south of Charlotte where he plays tennis for the school. They recommended a market to go to and this will be out Sunday, after Lynn and Ron return from church!
We found the tram stop right away and then remembered that we had to purchase our tickets in advance--Thus began our walks across the Plaza Commercio First one direction to what we thought was a TI--then over to the TI--then across the Square to another TI and finally down into the Metro station to buy the tickets--then back up out of the metro and back across the square to wait for the tram. The ride was an experience--because it was a Saturday and because it was a beautiful day--and because Belem is a tourist desination, we were in the tram like sardines. Nor says that Portugal is famous for its sardines and as Ron pointed out so far these are the only ones we have found.
The tram let us off right in from of the Monastary of Sa. Jeronimos.
The Monastary is a huge building running 300 yards. It was built by King Manuel to celebrate and pray for the explorers. Vasco De Gama who is buried there is said to have prayed for his safe return before leaving on his voyages. The cloisters of the monastary are a large square in the style called Manueline--it is very ornate all for decoration not for structure, there are curliques and other designs in the cut stone as well as gargoyles and family crests. The two stories of the cloisters are beautiful to walk around. The church too is lovely, in this same style. At the altar are the tombs of two kings and two queens all on the back of elephants which replaced lions as symbols of power.
After visiting the monastary we crossed the main roads and went to the statue remembering all the explorers, led by Henry the Navigator. We walked to the Tower of Belem, which is at the mouth of the river to protect Lisbon from invaders. The park was crowded with families, couples and singles enjoying the gorgeous day
Next we walked to the Pastels de Belem shop for a traditional tart like sweet and a coffee (beer for Nor and Ron). Then back on the bus and to the flat. We stopped just long enough to drop off cameras and change shoes, then to Trindad for a beer and appetizers.
Across the street from Trindade we found (thank you Ron) a restaurant called Faz Gostos-- WOW!
Another amazing meal of seafoods. and two incredible desserts Lynn and I are going back there for desserts while the guys go across the street to Trinidade for beers--hey calories are calories!!!
While dining a charming french couple sat down and as they prepared to order they asked Ron what he was having and that started a nice conversation. We learned that their son is in univeristy south of Charlotte where he plays tennis for the school. They recommended a market to go to and this will be out Sunday, after Lynn and Ron return from church!
Saturday, March 28, 2015
Sintra
We left at 9:30 with our guide and driver Jose' to head out to Sintra and two royal residences.
The first the Royal Palace at Sintra had a slightly Moorish feel but was much more of a palace. Many of the rooms and truly amazing paintings on the ceilings including one room that had a high dome covered with portraits of members of the family. The kitchen was as big as my house and had two huge beehive ceilings open to the sky at the top. From outside they looked like huge factory chimneys, except they were covered with plaster and painted white, inside they composed the two halves of the rooms.
The second castle also a royal residence was on the top of the mountain, the last royal to add to the castle was a relative of Mad Ludwig of Neuschwanstein fame and the family proclivity for over the top mountain top castle construction was definitely in evidence here. The castle which was described by Rick Steves as part moorish, part romanesque and part disney was all that and more. The castle it self is painted red and yellow and dark blue gey, parts of the exterior have tiles covering them. Some of the arches are moorish in style others are more gothic with gargoyles at the top or corners of the arches. The rooms themselves are a bit tamer but definitely ornate with more amazing tile work and plaster work ceilings. After touring the castle we walked down through some of the gardens to meet up with Jose'.
Next he took us to a typical Portugese resturant--according to him. The food was excellent. Lynn and Ron had a cod and potato dish that had a great flavor but because it was based on salt cod was definitely salty. Nor and I shared a really nice kebob of various meats that came with potatoes and rice. Lynn Ron and Nor also had an excellent soup. Dessert was an almond cake topped with fruit and ice cream--the cake was amazing--if I went there again I would get just the almond cake (for dessert).
On the drive back to the city we drove to the western most point of Portugal which is at exactly the same latitude as New York City. It was lovely but incredibly windy.
We stopped into Trinidade for a beer Lynn and I left the guys to go buy food for dinner--does it sound like this trip is about eating? They decided to have another beer and through what they claim was a mis-understanding they were served four more beers and of course, to assure that they would not be considered ugly Americans, they HAD to drink all four, they took one for the nation--what patriots!
Of course, since Lynn and I were out on our own we were able to find a great shop with just what we needed to buy for our girls back home (and a little for ourselves--lets be clear this is OUR trip)
A great dinner -- says the chef -- another good bottle of wine --- some cards --- and now off to bed!
The first the Royal Palace at Sintra had a slightly Moorish feel but was much more of a palace. Many of the rooms and truly amazing paintings on the ceilings including one room that had a high dome covered with portraits of members of the family. The kitchen was as big as my house and had two huge beehive ceilings open to the sky at the top. From outside they looked like huge factory chimneys, except they were covered with plaster and painted white, inside they composed the two halves of the rooms.
The second castle also a royal residence was on the top of the mountain, the last royal to add to the castle was a relative of Mad Ludwig of Neuschwanstein fame and the family proclivity for over the top mountain top castle construction was definitely in evidence here. The castle which was described by Rick Steves as part moorish, part romanesque and part disney was all that and more. The castle it self is painted red and yellow and dark blue gey, parts of the exterior have tiles covering them. Some of the arches are moorish in style others are more gothic with gargoyles at the top or corners of the arches. The rooms themselves are a bit tamer but definitely ornate with more amazing tile work and plaster work ceilings. After touring the castle we walked down through some of the gardens to meet up with Jose'.
Next he took us to a typical Portugese resturant--according to him. The food was excellent. Lynn and Ron had a cod and potato dish that had a great flavor but because it was based on salt cod was definitely salty. Nor and I shared a really nice kebob of various meats that came with potatoes and rice. Lynn Ron and Nor also had an excellent soup. Dessert was an almond cake topped with fruit and ice cream--the cake was amazing--if I went there again I would get just the almond cake (for dessert).
On the drive back to the city we drove to the western most point of Portugal which is at exactly the same latitude as New York City. It was lovely but incredibly windy.
We stopped into Trinidade for a beer Lynn and I left the guys to go buy food for dinner--does it sound like this trip is about eating? They decided to have another beer and through what they claim was a mis-understanding they were served four more beers and of course, to assure that they would not be considered ugly Americans, they HAD to drink all four, they took one for the nation--what patriots!
Of course, since Lynn and I were out on our own we were able to find a great shop with just what we needed to buy for our girls back home (and a little for ourselves--lets be clear this is OUR trip)
A great dinner -- says the chef -- another good bottle of wine --- some cards --- and now off to bed!
Friday, March 27, 2015
Lisbon Day One
We all slept in -- well is was 6:30 when we got up and we all thought that was sleeping in. An important note is that the three people who did not fast--are not jetlagged and neither is the guy who fasted--so I am thinking that fasting is not the cure all for jetlag.
With the help of Rick Steve's we took three walking tours of Lisbon. The city is definitely built on hills, it puts Rome to same in the number and steepness of the hills. So many of the buidings are covered with their beautiful tiles in geometric patterns. The camera mavens (Lynn and Becky) were taking snaps of buildings everywhere.
We had lunch at a charming cafe serving Portugese tapas--similar to Spanish tapas but served in Portugal. It was really windy and then started to sprinkle so we moved inside for a much more pleasant experience. One of the tapas plates, our waiter told us, was an award winner, it was prociutto wrapped around a very light soft cheese with a bit of jam -- I know you think your kid could make that -- but I assure you, just like art, your kid really couldn't and it was really really good.
We then walked on and ended up at the castle, it is on a very steep and high hill, so we decided that cab ride was a good idea. The castle grounds were facinating and the views of the city were beautiful. I would disagree with Rick Steve's--this is not to be missed--not because they are necessarily unusual ruins but because they are lovely.
A walk down the hill, during which Ron pointed out, that going down only meant we were going to have to go back up, led us back to the water side. The walk down was mostly on streets so steep we were on stairs. Think Colin Firth in Love Actually as he was going to propose to his girl and you will know the type of stairs we were on!
Our next task was to find a grocery--our trailblazer and guide (Norris) failed us until we got back to the room and he googled it and found two within about 400 meters. Ron was on wine duty and the Lynn, Nor and I went to Brio to buy supplies for dinner and breakfast.
Back at the flat (see how European I am?) Lynn and I prepared sauted vegetables over pasta and sweet potatoes with olive oil and goat cheese--in my unbiased and humble opinion it was REALLY Good! The wines were amazing--which may have helped a bit--insert cockeyed grin here--
We all tumbled into bed fairly early -- Sintra tomorrow!
With the help of Rick Steve's we took three walking tours of Lisbon. The city is definitely built on hills, it puts Rome to same in the number and steepness of the hills. So many of the buidings are covered with their beautiful tiles in geometric patterns. The camera mavens (Lynn and Becky) were taking snaps of buildings everywhere.
We had lunch at a charming cafe serving Portugese tapas--similar to Spanish tapas but served in Portugal. It was really windy and then started to sprinkle so we moved inside for a much more pleasant experience. One of the tapas plates, our waiter told us, was an award winner, it was prociutto wrapped around a very light soft cheese with a bit of jam -- I know you think your kid could make that -- but I assure you, just like art, your kid really couldn't and it was really really good.
We then walked on and ended up at the castle, it is on a very steep and high hill, so we decided that cab ride was a good idea. The castle grounds were facinating and the views of the city were beautiful. I would disagree with Rick Steve's--this is not to be missed--not because they are necessarily unusual ruins but because they are lovely.
A walk down the hill, during which Ron pointed out, that going down only meant we were going to have to go back up, led us back to the water side. The walk down was mostly on streets so steep we were on stairs. Think Colin Firth in Love Actually as he was going to propose to his girl and you will know the type of stairs we were on!
Our next task was to find a grocery--our trailblazer and guide (Norris) failed us until we got back to the room and he googled it and found two within about 400 meters. Ron was on wine duty and the Lynn, Nor and I went to Brio to buy supplies for dinner and breakfast.
Back at the flat (see how European I am?) Lynn and I prepared sauted vegetables over pasta and sweet potatoes with olive oil and goat cheese--in my unbiased and humble opinion it was REALLY Good! The wines were amazing--which may have helped a bit--insert cockeyed grin here--
We all tumbled into bed fairly early -- Sintra tomorrow!
Thursday, March 26, 2015
We are in Portugal
Arrived in Lisbon last night. It was a long but uneventful trip. Nor did his jet lag fast and is still in bed. I think he is just showing off!
Our apartment is great I am looking out the living room window at some beautiful tiles on the house across the way. I can see that these may be hard to resist. My poor Sherpa--having to carry a sack full of tiles!
We had dinner at a converted monastery that makes the oldest made traditional beer in Portugal. They use the monks recipe I guess. Anyway it was really good and the seafood we had was amazing.
Off to discover the city with Lynn, Ron and my loving fella Norris.
Our apartment is great I am looking out the living room window at some beautiful tiles on the house across the way. I can see that these may be hard to resist. My poor Sherpa--having to carry a sack full of tiles!
We had dinner at a converted monastery that makes the oldest made traditional beer in Portugal. They use the monks recipe I guess. Anyway it was really good and the seafood we had was amazing.
Off to discover the city with Lynn, Ron and my loving fella Norris.
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