October 7

October 7

I begin this evening where we ended our day. Which is also where we began our day at the Monastery.

We started our day touring the monastery and decided we had to come back to the restaurant at the monastery called Bella Vista. We sat outside on the outer grounds of the monastery the food was good but the view over the jewel lights of the city was beyond price. To our left was the cathedral at the castle straight down in front of us we could see the spires of St. Nicholas church and like a necklace of Czech amber the lights of the Charles Bridge led across the river into the lights of old town.

The monastery has a world famous library. The larger room was being renovated but we could see some of it. It is two stories high and floor to ceiling with book shelves. Usually here are the books devoted to philosophy. Just down the hall, which is filled with the books on law and medicine is a smaller but I am sure equally as gorgeous library of religious books. There are also a series of globes from different times, including one that does not yet show Australia. Half way down the room is a small locked cabinet that contains the forbidden books, only the abbot had the key.

The books were all bound in leather but the earlier ones were covered with chalk to help protect them.

Just outside the library was a cabinet of books, each one had on its spine something that looked like the leaves or branches of a tree, which it was—inside the 'book' were parts of the trees represented on the outside.

I know so much because we had the good fortune to have the attention of one of the docents, she used her limited but good English to tell us all about the library. When we thanked her for her time she said “ it is our duty”.

The grounds of the monastery are peaceful and a nice change from the noise of even this quieter part of Prague.

We took the tram down to the old town and wandered through the two Hussite churches ( actually one is back to being a Catholic church,) that had been closed on Monday. They are both Gothic in construction with lots of Baroque added. In the second church ( the church of St James) at the back is this black thing hanging from the wall, legend has it that in 1400 a thief was trying to steal jewels from the pieta on the altar and his arm froze to it. The priests had to cut off his arm because it would not come loose. So they hung it on the wall as a warning.

As we walked across Charles Bridge we came upon a group of middle aged and older oriental women sitting on low stools drawing and painting the view. Some of the work was really good. They seemed so calm, quiet and self contained. It made me feel badly that all I could aspire to was making some of my images look like paintings in photoshop! Oh well to each her talent!

We had a kielbasa in Old Town Square – wow Nothing in it is good for you so it is of course delicious.

While there were still lots of people today, they seemed a bit less frantic, either we are more used to it, or there were really fewer or the humidity and heat (yes it was 85 today) slowed them down. The teens were still as unconscious of the rest of the world and except when they are bumping you off the curb, fun to watch.

We walked to the tram and rode it back up to the castle, we walked into the castle through the woods outside the wall and then back up that damn hill. ( I think I have enjoyed that climb enough now)

We had a beer and then went to dinner at Bella Vista.

October 6

October 6

Today it was the Prague Castle. We tried to get to the Castle by opening time because Rick Steve said it got really crowded in the church early on. He wasn't kidding, we didn't miss the tour groups and they basically went through like traffic at rush hour one right on the bumper of the next. There was a brief break at 10 as the next group began to start their tours so we sort of jumped in the gap and took a few photos without too many heads in them.

The castle and church are fantastic. The cathedral is huge with high vaults supported by the flying buttresses outside. The stained glass is magnificent some very old and some from the mid 1930's. The sun was coming in through some of the windows and created the most wonderful rainbows of color on the walls.

The main hall of the palace is immense, they say that one time they actually held jousts in the hall. It was here that coronations happened for centuries and then in the 20^th century the first president of the new free government was sworn in.

The gardens are lovely and in European terms relatively new they were created in the 1800's. There has been a castle on this site since the 500's and a church since the 300's. There was a fire that destroyed much of the castle in the 1500's. It was stunning to read about building that went on here before Columbus had even crossed the ocean and long before the pilgrims came to the American continent.

We ended our sightseeing today with the Loreta chapel and convent. There is a small chapel that is supposed to contain some of the remains of Mary's home. The main chapel is intensely ornate with gold statues and relics. There is one side chapel that is the place that women in bad marriages go to pray for help. Nor offered me change to light a candle but I really couldn't imagine my marriage getting better so I declined. The Loreta Chapel is a starting place for many pilgrims and they had a list of the dates that the next pilgrimages would be starting and where they would be going.

After our dinner we went back down the hill to see the castle from across the river at night – and of course to take a few pictures.

We had planned to take the tram back up the hill, but without a whole lot of good thought we decided to walk back up. We did stop a few times, to take pictures – I promise they are really bad but we managed to catch our breath while we snapped. And then of course I managed to find the good dump spot for the Praguean dogs and we had to find some grass for me to scuff through so I wouldn't mess up the carpet in our hotel.

October 2 FINALLY

October 2

after I finish on the first Nor and I watched as the dignitaries began to assemble at the Opera House for the Olympics gala. It was exciting to be in the city where this was all happening. We decided to walk over to the Theater and Opera House to see what we could see. Of course it wasn't much but we were mistaken –all be it briefly --for someone important in the US Olympic group.

Up way too early to get to the train. The streets were all closed off around the City Hall because of Obama's visit. The cabby seemed truly confused about how he was going to get us to the station when his route of choice was closed. He managed to find a way, and we arrived in very good time.

Fortunately I had noticed that our Eurorail pass had not been properly stamped. We took care of that and went down to wait for the train. We are getting so good at this – we were able to read the train board and find the train. We even found the right car and seat!

The ride was comfortable and through some lovely parts of country. The one unexpected pleasure was the ferry ride to the mainland. The train just drove on—we all got off and went to the upper decks for the 45 minute crossing. It was cold outside but after the overwarm train it was a nice break.

As we were waiting to get off the train, I met our conductor, a charming young man who loves to go to Florida every year to go shopping. He as been all around the US but prefers Florida for the shopping. He also shared that he loved Epcot and they end their trip to the US on Thursday at Epcot because they had a choir that sings every Thursday.

I think cabbies only know one route and when they can't take it they are truly flumoxed. There is some sort of festival going on and the roads were closed off for a parade. He finally just dropped us off and we walked the rest of the way. Just a few blocks. The Damen in Schwartz understand that as soon as I saw Gallery Lafayette, I knew exactly how to to get to the Berlin Hilton.

The parade came by the hotel. It consisted of a two story high marionette that was walking down the street. She was worked by the puppeteers seated behind her and dressed in renaissance garb.

We then walked to Unter der Linden and visited the Brandenburg Gate, apparently our invitation to the Embassy got lost so we just looked at the outside. The rain was starting to come down in earnest but we persevered to the Reichstag so we could go up the glass dome.

Although the views were clouded by the rain they were still magnificent. The structure itself is well worth the climb up the ramps. The center mirrors provide light to the legislative assembly room below. The large metal screen moves around the central mirrors to reduce the glare. The center core is open to the sky (to let out all the hot air).

Today in Prague

October 5

This is our first full day in Prague. We walked down the cobbled street to the Charles Bridge and into Old Town. This being Monday many of the sights are closed. So while we were able to enjoy the old town square and Wenselas Square we couldn't see most of the churches or museums. The weather was great, warm and partly sunny.

I couldn't resist the potato pancakes or the hot sugar coated almonds (both were wonderful) There are covered vendor stalls all around the square selling lots of interesting crafts and great smelling food. One booth had a metal pan probably three feet in diameter and about a foot deep, it was over an open wood fire and they were cooking wonderful looking potatoes. Along with the potatoes they were selling the most fragrant kelbasa, the line was long so I think this will be tomorrow's lunch or maybe the next day.

On the way back up the hill at the end of the day we were able to enter St. Nicholas church. It is a glorious baroque catholic church. Still no stained glass but the high clear windows give a bright light to the interior. The ceilings are painted with various stories of the saints in a style that is supposed to add to the impression of height.

We stopped at a small shop just around the corner from the hotel to pick up a sandwich and beer for dinner.

We toasted yet another great day on this trip!

October 4

A long and lovely train ride to Prague' While we managed to make the boarding exciting we still found wonderful seats and were able to enjoy the beautiiful countryside from Dresden to Prague.
Prague is still working on its infrastructure and is clear from toe train station. It is utilitarian and nothing more. But it got us off the train and out into the town and we can ask no more.

Our hotel is beautiful and in a great part of the city. We wwalked down this narrow cobbled street toward the river to find a place for dinner, May I recommend the Three Violinsm I now know what Stroganoff is supposed to taste like. Nor had a duck offering which led him to declare that this was the best meal we have had so far!.

After dinner we walked back out to take a few pictures of the spires and lights.

Nor is happy we have wi-fi in the lobby.

October 3

October third is reunification day in Germany. On this date, Germany was reunified. It is clearly a national holiday with only the resturants open.

All of the museums were open and were free. Unter der Linden was closed to vehicles from at least the Berliner Dom all the way to the Brandenberg Gate. The Tiergarten was the site of a huge carnival and again the streets were closed.

It seemed that every citizen was out on the street. And it seemed that everyone was walking toward the other side, from the East to the West and from the West to the East. There was music everywhere and concerts all day at the Opera house at Gendarnemart. It was fun to be a part of the celebration, even if the morning was rainy. But about three the rain had stopped and the sun was at least peeking through.

We walked to the memorial for the murdered jews, another of the huge marionettes was being moved into her rigging and the crowds were huge, people were hanging out of their room windows and were standing on the stele in the memorial. We walked past the parking lot that is now Hitler's bunker and on to Checkpoint Charlie. We crossed from East to West and back. It is an odd feeling that I can do with ease what over 165 people lost their lives trying to do. You truly understand the importance of this date.

We decided to take one of the bus tours and were able to see much that we would otherwise not have gotten to in our short stay.

Because the stores were all closed -- we had to settle for another great German dinner out.

ON TO PRAGUE

(yes October 2 is missing I have it typed but can't seem to get it to load -- I will try again later)

October First

Happy Birthday Rick!

This morning we walked across the bridge to see two more churches.
The first is Christians Church. A very simple church most interesting were the box seats on three tiers, just like theater boxes. Not quite sure what that is all about.

This area includes Christianna which is described as the Danish Amsterdam. In the 60's is was mostly abandoned and the hippies moved in as squatters. The government didn't mind and there was still some living without water and electricity but apparently some rather high end hippie wannabes have moved in more recently and it has become, in some parts quite ritzy. We took brief walk along the old battlements and then back down to our next church.

we went over to Our Saviors Church. Its spire is something of a landmark, with a golden staircase on the outside of the spire. It is possible to walk all the way up but given the wind that has decided to mark our last day in Copenhagen, Nor decided not to go up. There was never any question that I was not goving up.
The church is lovely, the altar is magnificent as is the organ. The organist was practising while we were there adding to the atmosphere wonderfully. The church is white plaster of saints and the high center is marked with four shields. Because the churches here do not have stained glass they are very light and inviting.
The baptismal font is magnificent with a golden crown hanging over it. The story is that the king gave the font to his childless wife. When she finally did have a child she died in child birth and the child died nine months later.

It is really very windy today. When we stop walking the ind tends to blow us back.

After visiting the church we were blown back across the bridge to a lovely yarn shop. I finally found scottish yarn (they don't seem to sell any in Scotland) and I got some beautiful danish wool as well.

We walked a new route toward Magasin du Nord and Nyhaven, as we got to the Hotel Angleterre there was clearly somthing exciting happening. There were motorcycle cops and tv cameras everywhere--we were hoping for Michelle Obama.

A couple came up to us and ask in Danish if we knew who it was, by this time I had seen someone in a very elaborate uniform and had decided this was someone from Spain. I told the couple in english of course that I did not know who it was. She agreed that we hoped it was Mrs. Obama. A few minutes later she came back and told me it was the Spanish king and queen, as she said, at least, we saw someone.
It appears that they are meeting for some part of the Olympic meetings at Amalieborg. As we walked on, a British couple behind us commented,
'well, now we don't have to go to Spain'.

We dropped off my yarn and went back out for a boat ride around the harbor. We didn't see anything new but it was fun to sit and watch for awhile. The guide was giving her tour in Danish, English and German, really impressive. As we went by Amalieborg, we saw a dingy of well armed police or soldiers and lots of police on the streets. It was probably a good thing that we went a few days ago rather than today.

I was reading that the Danes consider that they have a way of living called heggye. It is about being cozy and happy and content and interested in life. The city is so very comfortable although we were of course careful and not out really late, we never felt at risk. Everyone has been helpful and while not always smiling they were generous with their help and time.

Our stay in Copenhagen is almost over. There is certainly more to see and do. Perhaps we will have another chance to see Denmark. If not we did have a wonderful taste of a great city.