For our last evening in Paris we went to the Monet Exhibit. We went just after 6 pm because we knew the lines would be much shorter. And they were, we walked right up to the front door through the maze that during the day would have held hundreds of patrons . Of course the exhibitvwas still crowded but you could see every painting. Some with only a slight wait for someone to move along.
The exhibitbwas huge. Most of the Orsay paintings by Monet as well as canvases from around the world were hung over three floors and countless rooms and walls. So many of his most famous paintings were there and several of each from his various series of images. The haystacks, Rouen Cathedrsl, the lily pond were all there. The show was to demonstrate at least in part the progression of his art. He began as a very young man to be recognized for his talent and there were paintings front 1864 forward to 1919. The paintings of the houses of parliament and my favorites of the lunch ion the grass were there.
The exhibit ended as so many do with the monumental lilypond canvases.
Afterward we dined at the cafe Grand Palais and swallowed the last of the Paris cigarette s,oke with our very fine wine and meal.
On the way back to the hotel we saw the EifelTower sparkle one last time-- our tradition is intact 5 nights five sparkles
On to Verona!
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Last Day in Paris October 9
Today we traveled to Place des Vouges a lovely square in the Marais. This the square with with Victor Hugos joke on one side. Again because the weather is so nice the locals were out in force drinking wine and sunning. We next walked to a small walled park that someone had told friend one about. It was trapped between four high white buildings and was approached only through an alley or the buildings. There were the past of the seasons roses still lovely but moving to blousey.
We went on to the Carnevelet, which houses a free museum of the history of Paris and some wonderful "belle époque" paintings. This museum too has a wonderful garden that we enjoyed for a bit before moving on.
We went to Rue Cler which is a permanent market street. There was some sort of festival going on and there were two brass bands playing. We stopped at a crepperiere for a crepe and coffee.. If was a wonderful spot for people watching and friend one and imade up some great life stories for the people passing by.
I did finally get my boulangerie croissant. It was so much better than the hotel variety.
Back at the hotel we continued the saga of the wrong dinner cruise.. The desk man is trying to get the charge reversed but so far has only gotten them to reduce the charge by one half. Not sure how this will finally work out. I only hope ww don't end up paying for two dinners. It really wasn't THAT good a dinner!
Tonight the Grand Palais and the Monet, I hope.
We went on to the Carnevelet, which houses a free museum of the history of Paris and some wonderful "belle époque" paintings. This museum too has a wonderful garden that we enjoyed for a bit before moving on.
We went to Rue Cler which is a permanent market street. There was some sort of festival going on and there were two brass bands playing. We stopped at a crepperiere for a crepe and coffee.. If was a wonderful spot for people watching and friend one and imade up some great life stories for the people passing by.
I did finally get my boulangerie croissant. It was so much better than the hotel variety.
Back at the hotel we continued the saga of the wrong dinner cruise.. The desk man is trying to get the charge reversed but so far has only gotten them to reduce the charge by one half. Not sure how this will finally work out. I only hope ww don't end up paying for two dinners. It really wasn't THAT good a dinner!
Tonight the Grand Palais and the Monet, I hope.
The Bateau Mouches Adventure
October 8
One of the highlights of this week was to be our dinner on the river. Friend one arranged with the front desk to have reservations made.
Ww dressed up at bit, and headed off for the 8:30 departure. The boat sailed from a spot not far from our hotel. In fact just carps from Cafe Francis. We tried the first boat and it was a private party so we went to the next which had Bateau Mouche on the side. They diretched us to yet a third entry.
By now it is 8:20, we present our voucher for our reservations omlyvto be told we were at the completely wrong company. Our reservations were with a company that sailed from near the Orsay, a good twenty minute walk away. Friend one got on the pjomevwith the hotel atvonce, as friend two and I bought the last few tickets for Bateau Mouche.
Apparently our hotel works with this other company and thought that we just wanted dinner on the Seine and were not specifying the company. Friend one will be fussing with the hotel and here credit card company for a bit over this snafu.
Anyway on to dinner. We jumped on just as the boatvwas departing. Our table for all the consternation was perfect. We were not sharing with other folk and were rigth by the window. We departed and headed toward the Eifel Tower, just as it started sparkling. We toasted our excursion with champagne . Having seen the Eifel Tower four nights in a row it is now our tradition and we will have to see it one last time Saturday night.
We ordered our dinner. I had beef as did friend two . Friend one decided on the fish. She has concluded that too much sugar and red met are adding to the inflammation that is making her back hurt. (we are hoping it does help)
We floated past the Louvre, Notre Dame and most importantly for me the people dancing tango on the Seine! I took a movie that is no doubt fuzzy but it is an important memory for me. Next time with my tango partner!
Right after our coffee and cognac we returned to shore and walked back to the hotel.
I really think I have finished with my eating in Paris.
One of the highlights of this week was to be our dinner on the river. Friend one arranged with the front desk to have reservations made.
Ww dressed up at bit, and headed off for the 8:30 departure. The boat sailed from a spot not far from our hotel. In fact just carps from Cafe Francis. We tried the first boat and it was a private party so we went to the next which had Bateau Mouche on the side. They diretched us to yet a third entry.
By now it is 8:20, we present our voucher for our reservations omlyvto be told we were at the completely wrong company. Our reservations were with a company that sailed from near the Orsay, a good twenty minute walk away. Friend one got on the pjomevwith the hotel atvonce, as friend two and I bought the last few tickets for Bateau Mouche.
Apparently our hotel works with this other company and thought that we just wanted dinner on the Seine and were not specifying the company. Friend one will be fussing with the hotel and here credit card company for a bit over this snafu.
Anyway on to dinner. We jumped on just as the boatvwas departing. Our table for all the consternation was perfect. We were not sharing with other folk and were rigth by the window. We departed and headed toward the Eifel Tower, just as it started sparkling. We toasted our excursion with champagne . Having seen the Eifel Tower four nights in a row it is now our tradition and we will have to see it one last time Saturday night.
We ordered our dinner. I had beef as did friend two . Friend one decided on the fish. She has concluded that too much sugar and red met are adding to the inflammation that is making her back hurt. (we are hoping it does help)
We floated past the Louvre, Notre Dame and most importantly for me the people dancing tango on the Seine! I took a movie that is no doubt fuzzy but it is an important memory for me. Next time with my tango partner!
Right after our coffee and cognac we returned to shore and walked back to the hotel.
I really think I have finished with my eating in Paris.
Friday, October 8, 2010
A beautiful day in the neighborhoods October 8
Today after our Spartan breakfast of bread, coffee and fruit we traveled to the Musee d'Orsay. We learned during dinner the other evening that we should say Orsay not d'Orsay, which makes sense but we had never considered it. Any way our entrance into the RER was far less entertaining today. Friend two and I are feeling quite accomplished as we insert out tickets and push through the stiles.
The museum was as stunning as the last time I saw it but most of the Monet paintings are at the Grand Palais for the Monet exhibit there. We will go there tomorrow. The van gogh and gaugain paintings were all on the lower floor because the upper floor is being redone. I think this museum is in a constant state of remodel. Last year large portions were closed and again this year. But disappointingly both years the photography galleries were closed. I will simply have to come again. Oh darn!
I walked through the furniture galleries and thought of N. The wood work was stunning -- I got some great ideas for our bedroom . I wonder if I can talk N into inlaid and carved wood--hmm.
We ate in the restaurant at the Orsay. (see what a quick study I am). Oinion soup for me. It was delicious!
A quick ride on the RER and we were at the Luexembourg gardens, but before we walked through them we went to St. Etienne Church. Wonderfully un crowded we wandered through the soaring aisles and enjoyed the play of light through the stained glass.
Right beside the church is the Pantheon in which many famous people are buried. We did not go in preferring the stroll around it. To one side of the Pantheon was the law school of the university of Paris. We walked into the couryard of this building that was started in the 1700s. It was all yellow stone and the center was open to the sky. -- hey my law school had a rotunda too! Not quite the same I have to admit
On the way down the hill to the gardens we noticed that the various book stores had lots of law books. Interestingly not one of us felt the urge to buy one.
Back to the gardens. They were first laid out by Katherine de Medici. There are a number of large fountains and shaded promenades. Tennis courts and children play yards dot the space as well. If I hadn't seen thousands of folk sitting in the cafes I would have said that all of Paris was sunning in the Gardens. I think I forgot to mention that the days is clear and crisp and really just perfect.
We walked across the gardens to the replica of our Statue of Liberty she is much smaller than our Lady Liberty but still quite lovely.
Now on to St Suplice. A lovely church known for its Delacroix painting. It was lovely but could use a good cleaning. All of these churches need someone to give them a good dusting. It is too bad to see these amazing pulpits and other treasures half obscured by dust.
Friend one and I hopped on a bus to back toward the hotel. When we got off we decided that we needed a cup of tea and something to hold us to dinner. We sat down at Chez Francis and had tea and a light sandwich. (we shared the sandwich--lest someone think that we were just eating our way through Paris. While we sat there about 50 gendarmes in full riot gear marched up. Some of them chased off a crowd of very loud men and then the police ringed the street in front of us. They did not seem too worried about everyone sitting at the cafe, but they were certainly dressed for trouble. When we walked on toward our hotel we walked past one of the big hotels, I forgot the name, and there were lots of men in black suits standing around talking into their shoulders with coils of wire growing out of their ears. I hope I can find out what it all was about.
Last night after I posted we had a light dinner and then went to a tea room on the Champs Eleyses called LaDurer. We had tea and dessert in the open air. The place is famous for it's macaroons I understand but it could be known for it's lemon tart. Oh My, sweet and tart and wonderful.
As I read over all of this I realize that we really are eating our way through Paris and tonight we are having dinner on the Seine on one of the dinner cruises. Eating and sightseeing! Should be fun. I will let you know.
The museum was as stunning as the last time I saw it but most of the Monet paintings are at the Grand Palais for the Monet exhibit there. We will go there tomorrow. The van gogh and gaugain paintings were all on the lower floor because the upper floor is being redone. I think this museum is in a constant state of remodel. Last year large portions were closed and again this year. But disappointingly both years the photography galleries were closed. I will simply have to come again. Oh darn!
I walked through the furniture galleries and thought of N. The wood work was stunning -- I got some great ideas for our bedroom . I wonder if I can talk N into inlaid and carved wood--hmm.
We ate in the restaurant at the Orsay. (see what a quick study I am). Oinion soup for me. It was delicious!
A quick ride on the RER and we were at the Luexembourg gardens, but before we walked through them we went to St. Etienne Church. Wonderfully un crowded we wandered through the soaring aisles and enjoyed the play of light through the stained glass.
Right beside the church is the Pantheon in which many famous people are buried. We did not go in preferring the stroll around it. To one side of the Pantheon was the law school of the university of Paris. We walked into the couryard of this building that was started in the 1700s. It was all yellow stone and the center was open to the sky. -- hey my law school had a rotunda too! Not quite the same I have to admit
On the way down the hill to the gardens we noticed that the various book stores had lots of law books. Interestingly not one of us felt the urge to buy one.
Back to the gardens. They were first laid out by Katherine de Medici. There are a number of large fountains and shaded promenades. Tennis courts and children play yards dot the space as well. If I hadn't seen thousands of folk sitting in the cafes I would have said that all of Paris was sunning in the Gardens. I think I forgot to mention that the days is clear and crisp and really just perfect.
We walked across the gardens to the replica of our Statue of Liberty she is much smaller than our Lady Liberty but still quite lovely.
Now on to St Suplice. A lovely church known for its Delacroix painting. It was lovely but could use a good cleaning. All of these churches need someone to give them a good dusting. It is too bad to see these amazing pulpits and other treasures half obscured by dust.
Friend one and I hopped on a bus to back toward the hotel. When we got off we decided that we needed a cup of tea and something to hold us to dinner. We sat down at Chez Francis and had tea and a light sandwich. (we shared the sandwich--lest someone think that we were just eating our way through Paris. While we sat there about 50 gendarmes in full riot gear marched up. Some of them chased off a crowd of very loud men and then the police ringed the street in front of us. They did not seem too worried about everyone sitting at the cafe, but they were certainly dressed for trouble. When we walked on toward our hotel we walked past one of the big hotels, I forgot the name, and there were lots of men in black suits standing around talking into their shoulders with coils of wire growing out of their ears. I hope I can find out what it all was about.
Last night after I posted we had a light dinner and then went to a tea room on the Champs Eleyses called LaDurer. We had tea and dessert in the open air. The place is famous for it's macaroons I understand but it could be known for it's lemon tart. Oh My, sweet and tart and wonderful.
As I read over all of this I realize that we really are eating our way through Paris and tonight we are having dinner on the Seine on one of the dinner cruises. Eating and sightseeing! Should be fun. I will let you know.
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Paris October 7 Notre Dame
This morning we managed, the the help of an alarm clock to get up on time. We even beat friend one into the breakfast room.
I haven't yet described our room. You enter our room off the lobby. Room number 1, is ours. We have an anteroom which is also the dressing room. . Then through another door into our chamber. We have twin beds that are pushed together at one end of the room and a lovely red velvet settee and chairs with a round table and small desk at the other.
The bathroom is floor to ceiling white marble, with a footed tub and two sinks. No bidet, thank god!
After our breakfast we took the RER to Jardin des Plantes. Wevhad a bit of trouble with the machine trying to get our tickets. The machine did not like any of our cardss and would only take pieces, no paper money, we finally managed to scrap enough change up among us to get the necessary tickets and as soon as we got off the train we bought tickets from a live person who had no trouble running our cards.
The process of getting onto the RER took about 20 minutes and the ride was about 15. When I had used my Metro app on my phone it gave me arouse by metro that would take about 33minutes. Friend one knew that the train would take less time so that is how we travelled. But with all the trouble we had, we about broke even.
From the Jardin we walked the Seine to Notre Dame. We walked past the Ile Ste Louis and overeat the Ile de la Cite. We stopped briefly at the Deportation Memorial. A very somber memorial to those who were removed from France by the Nazis during the second world war.
Then we walked around to the front of Notre Dame. We shuffled through with 10,000 of our closest friends. The stained glass is magnificent. I lit a candle for Nors mom and mine and then shuffled on out. Do you get the feeling that I didn't get the feeling of awe and beauty that I have had before? It is true. With all the tourists and cameras and posing in front of statues of saints it was hard to get a sense of peace or reverence.
We next went across the river to the rive gauche. We went into a book store to true to find some books friend one wanted. We did find some of them but she is still thinking about them. We walked on to a small bistro for a light lunch and an orangenia. Then on to place Dauphine and the tip of Ile de la Cite.
This evening we again dine light with an eye toward the Eiffel Tower and then perhaps dessert on the Champs Eleyesses.
I haven't yet described our room. You enter our room off the lobby. Room number 1, is ours. We have an anteroom which is also the dressing room. . Then through another door into our chamber. We have twin beds that are pushed together at one end of the room and a lovely red velvet settee and chairs with a round table and small desk at the other.
The bathroom is floor to ceiling white marble, with a footed tub and two sinks. No bidet, thank god!
After our breakfast we took the RER to Jardin des Plantes. Wevhad a bit of trouble with the machine trying to get our tickets. The machine did not like any of our cardss and would only take pieces, no paper money, we finally managed to scrap enough change up among us to get the necessary tickets and as soon as we got off the train we bought tickets from a live person who had no trouble running our cards.
The process of getting onto the RER took about 20 minutes and the ride was about 15. When I had used my Metro app on my phone it gave me arouse by metro that would take about 33minutes. Friend one knew that the train would take less time so that is how we travelled. But with all the trouble we had, we about broke even.
From the Jardin we walked the Seine to Notre Dame. We walked past the Ile Ste Louis and overeat the Ile de la Cite. We stopped briefly at the Deportation Memorial. A very somber memorial to those who were removed from France by the Nazis during the second world war.
Then we walked around to the front of Notre Dame. We shuffled through with 10,000 of our closest friends. The stained glass is magnificent. I lit a candle for Nors mom and mine and then shuffled on out. Do you get the feeling that I didn't get the feeling of awe and beauty that I have had before? It is true. With all the tourists and cameras and posing in front of statues of saints it was hard to get a sense of peace or reverence.
We next went across the river to the rive gauche. We went into a book store to true to find some books friend one wanted. We did find some of them but she is still thinking about them. We walked on to a small bistro for a light lunch and an orangenia. Then on to place Dauphine and the tip of Ile de la Cite.
This evening we again dine light with an eye toward the Eiffel Tower and then perhaps dessert on the Champs Eleyesses.
Paris Day 2 Monmartre
We began today by sleeping in. We weren't supposed to but since friend 2 and I neglected to set an alarm. We slept until friend 1 knocked. Wevjumped up and were ready to go very quickly. Our breakfast was okay. Not really up to Holiday Inn express standards but the coffee was goo and it was enough to get us started.
We began the day at the Wilson Street Market. We walked the length and marveled at the variety of fruit, meat, fish and people. Of course we didd have to buy a couple of things and at one place the man gave us each a little Eiffel Tower key chain and you would have thought we had just received a very valuable gift. With a smile he told us that is was very special gold.
As we walked back down the market friend one bought us a type of crepe thing that was covered with a thumb paste. My it was good. Friend two bought me a lovely scaffold that I wore the rest of the day.
We took the bus to Opera Garnier and wandered through Gallaries Layfayette for a bit. Wevwent on to the roof and were treated to an amazing, though misty panorama of the city.
Did I forgot to mention that it is a bit rainy today? The temperature was great but it was a bit misty all day.
We took the bus to a lovely park. Parc Monceau. We sat on a bench and people watched for a bit. And then we went on to Montmartre and Sacre Couer. We wandered the streets of Monmartre for a bit and stopped for an Orangeina at a small cafe. The drink is sort of orange juice with seltzer only better.
We walked down to a little place called, Entre' Acte for dinner. Were joined by two of friend one's friends Silve and Daniele. They were absolutely charming. We sat and talked for nearly three hours. I wish we could have spent more time with them. They were both teachers who have now retired and are really enjoying the troiseme age. Silve is studying painting and takes painting workshops and Daniele is learning Italian.
We took a cab back to the hotel and then walked to the Siene to watch the lights on the Eifel Tower.
I have set the alarm so maybe we won't sleep in tomorrow. But hey we are on vacation and don't have to catch a plane or anything so if we do oh well, just one more tale for frend one to tell at dinner.
We began the day at the Wilson Street Market. We walked the length and marveled at the variety of fruit, meat, fish and people. Of course we didd have to buy a couple of things and at one place the man gave us each a little Eiffel Tower key chain and you would have thought we had just received a very valuable gift. With a smile he told us that is was very special gold.
As we walked back down the market friend one bought us a type of crepe thing that was covered with a thumb paste. My it was good. Friend two bought me a lovely scaffold that I wore the rest of the day.
We took the bus to Opera Garnier and wandered through Gallaries Layfayette for a bit. Wevwent on to the roof and were treated to an amazing, though misty panorama of the city.
Did I forgot to mention that it is a bit rainy today? The temperature was great but it was a bit misty all day.
We took the bus to a lovely park. Parc Monceau. We sat on a bench and people watched for a bit. And then we went on to Montmartre and Sacre Couer. We wandered the streets of Monmartre for a bit and stopped for an Orangeina at a small cafe. The drink is sort of orange juice with seltzer only better.
We walked down to a little place called, Entre' Acte for dinner. Were joined by two of friend one's friends Silve and Daniele. They were absolutely charming. We sat and talked for nearly three hours. I wish we could have spent more time with them. They were both teachers who have now retired and are really enjoying the troiseme age. Silve is studying painting and takes painting workshops and Daniele is learning Italian.
We took a cab back to the hotel and then walked to the Siene to watch the lights on the Eifel Tower.
I have set the alarm so maybe we won't sleep in tomorrow. But hey we are on vacation and don't have to catch a plane or anything so if we do oh well, just one more tale for frend one to tell at dinner.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Paris 2010
Today we began our time in Paris. The three of us met up in line for customs which was a happy coincidence given the increasingly complex alternatives we had for fining one another in an exceptionally large airport.
Our drive to the hotel was quick and uneventful. The weather is gray and will likely be again tomorrow but as friend 2 noted. All the cheesiest images of Paris are of Paris with rain reflections.
The weather though gray is wonderful. Cool and crisp. What more can a desist rat ask.
We Checked into our hotel which feels like a very traditional hotel just mintues from the Champs Eleyeses and the Eifel Tower
We walked down the Champs .
Dinner was at the Cafe Andre. We toasted friend one's life family memories and friends.
Afterward we walked to the Champs Eleyeses to see the lights and the to the Eifel Tower to see more lights
Back to the roo. And to bed early. ( or late depending on how you look at it)
Our drive to the hotel was quick and uneventful. The weather is gray and will likely be again tomorrow but as friend 2 noted. All the cheesiest images of Paris are of Paris with rain reflections.
The weather though gray is wonderful. Cool and crisp. What more can a desist rat ask.
We Checked into our hotel which feels like a very traditional hotel just mintues from the Champs Eleyeses and the Eifel Tower
We walked down the Champs .
Dinner was at the Cafe Andre. We toasted friend one's life family memories and friends.
Afterward we walked to the Champs Eleyeses to see the lights and the to the Eifel Tower to see more lights
Back to the roo. And to bed early. ( or late depending on how you look at it)
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